As the chief creative officer of Calvin Klein, Raf Simons is expected to reckon with what it means to be an American today. At his menswear show, he began to grapple with those topics, finding ways to reinvent Milton Glaser’s “I heart NY” logos and other American iconography. Here, we recap the main takeaways of the evening; check back later for Luke Leitch’s full review.
A slew of New York designers showed up for Simons’s NYFW debut, among them Joseph Altuzarra and Narciso Rodriguez. As for the celebrity quotient, longtime Simons fan Leelee Sobieski sat front row as did Neil Patrick Harris.
Nearly every look was cinched with a piece of duct tape. Some had phrases written across like walk with me and I heart you, while other were opaque black. The result was an overall silhouette that was bold-shouldered and slim at the waist.
For Fall, Simons partnered with the Woolmark Company on wool knitwear. Sweaters were intarsia’ed with I love you while varsity striped arm warmers were worn over outerwear. The oversize knitwear that had permeated Simons’s recent collections was reworked here as cropped striped knits with wide pockets.
Should you have been able to read Simons’s printed tees underneath blazers and coats, you’d have gotten a good look at the designer’s wants this season. One legible example read any way out of this,” while others provided commentary on America or served up Simons-branded merch.
Should you have any concerns that banker-chic was back, let Simons be your guide. Whipstitched loafers accompanied nearly every look, with boot-cut pants billowing beside them. Check the ankles of bankers and street style hypebeasts in 2017 to see if it sticks.